Mick Forster's cars

1963 Series IIa 88" in 1973" | 1963 Series IIa 88" in 1981 | 1976 Series III 88" in 1986 | 1973 Series III 109" Safari | Sam's Landy | LPG conversion
Mow Cop Castle | Peak District | Burslem | Somerset | Photos of Norfolk
Citroen C1 | 1953 Morris Oxford MO | 1962 Ford Cortina Mk 1 | 1963 Austin Cambridge | 1973 Toyota Celica

Rover 100 Comments page

Please email your comments to mick@britpics.co.uk

Below is a list of previous comments

15:35, 8th May 2007 John SmithThe K-series does seem prone to over-heating.19:23, 10th May 2007
21:21, 25th May 2007 MickThe head gasket went again after 6 months, this time I had the head skimmed
18:32, 31st May 2007 jongood lad you've helped me solve the same problem, talk about a saga! Beats me how designers can put together such a crappy system, what could be easier ,radiator, water pump, pressure cap, thermostat, hardly rocket science is it. anyway thanks and the photos were great, Haynes should employ you.
17:32, 5th June 2007 carl edgarhavin same sort of probs.where is the thermostat situated. cheers
22:24, 5th June 2007 MickThe thermostat is behind the water pump underneath the inlet manifold in a plastic housing, hope that helps.
15:55, 19th June 2007 TimMate, you have the tenacity of a bull-dog!!! I have never known of anyone to so persist in spite of such adversity. At the end of the day it's still only a crappy rover metro. I suppose you will be replacing the crankshaft soon!!! Good for you! Keep at it. Don't let the nasty little sod beat you.
14:30, 23rd June 2007 KarlAs a learner driver - the 100 seems a great first car - but with the grief you seem to be experiencing I'm not so sure !! Great detail to your site 10/10. Any thoughts on this 114 currently on Ebay...Item number 250134188123
06:45, 24th June 2007 MickKarl, the Rover 100 is a great car, we have had ours for 6 years and it's a 12 year old car. I should have checked the radiator out before it started overheating. Thats what I do with my Landrover. The one on eBay looks good but I wouldn't go over £ 500 for one.
12:24, 13th August 2007 ScottYour step by step process for inspecting and repairing the Rover is wonderful. I am currently having some issues with my 111 SLi overheating and the information you have posted will give me valuable insight in reparing the issue!!! Thanks
20:18, 30th August 2007 anthonyjust bought a 114 and have a overheating problem after reading your page im certain its the head gasket the bottom of the radiator is cold and the top of it is scalding i can get a gasket kit with bolts for £ 70 do you think i can just do the gasket or should i do the thermostat,water pump aswell,how long did the gasket change take, by the way excellent article,great help.im no mechanic but i think ill have a go its either that or scrap it which would be a shame its only done 50,000 miles and its a tidy car.
13:10, 3rd September 2007 MickHi Anthony, I would check the waterpump at least, I was amazed at the absence of vanes on my old one. Then you can check the themostat as well. I tend to take a while to do these jobs so the head gasket change took a good day, but you could do it quicker.12:05, 28th September 2007
11:04, 4th October 2007 jonhn boytop geezer just had head skimmed fingers crossed this sorts it keep up the good work.
16:58, 12th October 2007 ryanyou have some dertermination! i wouldnt bother with a car of that value and caliber. You should have ditched it earlier.When the 416 went we just scrapped it, so well done!
21:42, 18th October 2007 Fred ChadwickWell done Mick. ive got the same engine in my rover 200 and water pumps leaking youve given me the inspiration to sort it myself. many thanks
14:35, 19th October 2007 Fred ChadwickJust before i strip down the motor could the leak be any where else in the location of the pump. Thank you.
14:33, 24th October 2007 David Mick took all the info off your webpage to fix my water pump and basically 50%of the things you are telling people to do neednt even be touched mate. Just to say thanks for adding 2 hours or more onto my job.
17:00, 24th October 2007 Mick David, sorry you did more than you needed to, but this was what I did, I'm not saying it's what anyone else should do and I'm not telling anyone else to do anything. I would like to know what it was I didn't need to do though.
20:41, 26th October 2007 SimonMick - What a good site!!!My daughters Rover Metro 100 R reg Ascot has just started to overheat.Cant see any leakage but did a test on the drive and the expansion tank overflows after 15 mins but the water is not hot.Garage says it's the head gasket and want to charge 500.There is no sign of water in the oil and no sign of oil in the water - could it just be a radiator blockage....Reading what you've done makes me think it's easier to scrap the car off but it was a good runner with 34K miles on the clock.
12:47, 4th November 2007 bobSame problem, bought a water pump, saw your site, and decided to take the inlet off, valve stuck like yours, fixed no more overheating, thanks a bunch.
18:34, 6th November 2007 Patrick E. HamptonHow to repair an old to toyota celica. It has been sitting in the yard for two years.What is the first thing to do
21:07, 25th November 2007 Fred ChadwickMick. Wouldent and couldnt have done it without your info. thanks
16:23, 27th November 2007 MickThank you Fred
16:24, 27th November 2007 tonybrilliant
16:36, 1st January 2008 NeilWhen you had the head skimmed did you have to remove the cam and valves etc or can they be left in situ, also roughly how much does it cost to have a head skimmed and how long does it take.I had a Rover 400 which the head went i got quoted 700 to fix, consequently i got rid of it.
16:50, 2nd January 2008 MickTo have mine skimmed only cost about 50 and it was done in a day. It was a firm that specialises in cylinder heads, and no I left the valves and camshaft in place.
15:03, 3rd January 2008 KathrynJuat been told the head gasket has failed on my N reg. But no water in oil or oil in water so how do they know for sure. I think the mechanic just has a thing against the K series engine - they say they wouldn't replace the head gasket only but would have to replace the complete engine! Has anyone got any ideas. I don't want to scrap it - 2 Rover metros in family and we love 'em!
16:36, 5th January 2008 MickKathryn, check what Keith says below. Maybe yours has a pressure build up too and that's how they know the gasket has gone. I think with the Rover 100/Metros being so old now you need a mechanic who is an enthusiast and will not charge a lot just because its an old car. I can't see why they should replace the engine just because the head gasket has gone, but I suppose it may be less work for more profit. I love my Land Rover and go to great lengths to keep that going, alas the Rover 100 was a lower priority.
13:13, 15th January 2008 Keith GardnerMick, brilliant description and pictures of all the work you did on your Rover 100. I have just been through the same process, unfortunately before reading your article. First I replaced the head gasket, it had obviously blown, oil and water mixed. My mistake was not having the head skimmed then, it looked OK on a glass sheet and feeler gauges. I replaced the thermostat just in case and put it all back together and it started first time but overheated after a short run. I suspected an airlock so I bled the system many times, still overheated. Then I read your story and decided to check the water pump, still in perfect order, removed and checked thermostat just in case new one faulty, working perfectly, finally I removed inlet manifold and cleaned one way valve. At this juncture I would like to point out that I think your description of the operation of the valve was wrong. According to the Haynes manual, to check the operation of the valve you blow down the pipe from the overflow tank to the inlet manifold. Air should pass through into the cylinder head, when you suck the valve should close and not allow air back. I interpret this as meaning water can flow, from the expansion tank into the cylinder head, but cannot return. I think this is the opposite to what you described. I apoligise if I am wrong and the important thing is that the valve actually operates. At this point I shoud mention that when I refitted the water pump one of the two pillar bolts sheared. I managed to remove the stud, with great difficulty as you will appreciate, only to find that these bolts are no longer availble and the scrap yard is the only alternative, I don't suppose you have a spare one by any chance. My dilemma now is, once I have managed to get a stud, do I finish re-building the engine and try it or do I bite the bullet and remove the head again while I have got it stripped down and have the head skimmed. I ask this question because when I was trying to get the stud from the local Rover dealer I took the opportunity to describe the fault to a serviceman. He is sure that even though I have fitted a new head gasket, compressed air from a cylinder/s is escaping into the water system and pressurising it, hence, after the engine is run for a short time, water under great pressure tries to return to the expansion tank and is forced out of the top of the tank. When this happen it generates some stranges noises, there is no contamination yet between oil and water. What should I do.
21:46, 20th January 2008 MickKeith, this all sounds so familiar. I'm not sure how the valve should work, I just thought that where the tube goes into the header tank it is above the water level so I assumed that water flow would be from the head to the tank. But I suppose that if the pressure builds up then the water level in the tank could rise and then flow down the pipe to the head. Anyway, I'm afraid I don't have any studs, I got my replacements from the scrap yard too. The only problem with replacing the gasket again is the bolts. I bought new head bolts each time I took the head off so it can get expensive. I'm not sure whether I needed to, but they do stretch when tightened up. The Haynes manual mentions this and I think gives some measurements as well as suggesting that they should be replaced. If you have everything else in place and just need to secure the cover I might be inclined to try it for a bit and see what happens, good luck with it.
14:04, 19th February 2008 stevere rover 100 overheating. thanks for the info about the coolant valve within the inlet manifold. I had no idea it was there. what a crappy piece of design. My daughter's 100 is now working just fine. many thanks
08:27, 27th April 2008 KEVHI Mick MY CAR WAS Overheating YOU SAVE ME AND IT WAS THE design faults with the cooling system I WOULD LIKE TO SAY A BIG THANK YOU FOR THIS AND THE PICTURES WHERE A BIG HELP P.S I USED Silicone FOR THE GASKETS AS TEMP SILL WORKING AFTER 6000 MILES SUM TEMP SAID TO SAY NOW IT IS THE HEAD GASKETS THAT AS GONE NOW THATS MY NEXT JOB I HAVE BEEN READING Changing the head gasket SO NOW I AM HAPPY TO DO THE JOB MYSELF I WAS WORRIED ABOUT THE TIMEING BUT NOW I HAVE SEEN YOUR PICTURES I WILL DO THE JOB WITH CONFIDENCE THANKS TO ALL THE INFORMATION ON YOUR WEB SITE
04:24, 4th May 2008 KEV New head gasket all fitted and working thanks Mick Here are a couple of tips after you have removed lower engine. 1. Wipe the engine down with diesel with a rag 2. Very important clean the head bolts with diesel and a wire brush get them really clean 3 When you put the head bolts back after the 1st stage of tightening the head bolts, mark the bolts and engine with a permanent marker pen so you know that you have turn the full 360 degrees tightening 2st stage 180 degrees 3st stage 180 degrees 4. When you refill the engine with water put in 2 mugs of non bio washing powder. Mix the powder with warm water after the car is warm drain of water and refill. Warm car again and drain of water and refill do not forget to put your antifreeze back in.
22:50, 9th May 2008 all4neals@yahoo.co.ukpleas help me I have got a rover metro 1.4 auto on a K reg and the fan wont go of as soon as the ignition goes on the fan goes on I have tested the radiator switch and the thermostat and i am lost but as you said the top hose gets hot and the heater hoses but the botum hose is cold any idears.
12:29, 21st May 2008 JaimeMick, what tools did you use to change the head gasket Did you need Torx sockets Much obliged if you can help me out here!
00:00, 31st May 2008 MickYes I did use Torx sockets, had to buy them from Halfords. Apart from that and a torque wrench there was nothing special, just plenty of spanners and an average socket set and tool kit.
00:23, 19th August 2008 Teejayyou did not clean the throttle body and reset the throttle position on the computer.
08:21, 2nd September 2008 Brett BarnwellHi . I have recently finished putting a rover 25 engine in my metro 1.4 16v twin-cam but had an overheating problem. Your guide was brillant as I/we would have never found the blocked one-way valve . Thanks again
14:52, 14th September 2008 IanGreat set of information, i did the same job, overheat and headgasket, on a rover 214, darn K16 version engine. Now im going to do the same thing with the Rover 100. But it feels nicer to see that you have blazed the trail and your descriptions/pics are really great. I think you were right about the temp sensor btw i changed the one in the 214 after a similar set of stopping for no reason problems and it worked fine, the older one was sending bad info to the ECU.
13:29, 26th November 2008 roger Thanks a lot for these pages, clear good pictures, just what is needed when you have belt/tensioner/pump to do, also liked the LR pics/words etc, now just got to finish it off ,the job that is.
09:00, 22nd December 2008 DARREN MACgreat job mate... gives me the confidence to have ago myself rather than get ripped of by some mechanics
19:08, 2nd January 2009 andyvery good
14:49, 8th January 2009 MalcExcellent guide. My W/Pump needs replacing, but have no Manual, can't see tensioner and how it is slackened. Is it actually possible to replace Pump WITHOUT removing Engine Mounting.
14:51, 24th January 2009 MickI suppose it could be possible to remove the water pump without taking the engine mounting off, but I think it is a lot easier with it off. The engine can be moved up and down on a trolley jack enough to get at some of the bolts which are otherwise seriously difficult to reach with the spanners and sockets I was using.
10:52, 1st February 2009 DanWhat a cracking website mate, ive got a rover metro 100 bought it for 150 quid with a knackered head gasget exactly the same as yours mate, thanks for all the help and advice top man, CheeRS Dan
21:18, 7th February 2009 Angela ByrneHello please help me i have rover 111i and i really need to buy radiator for it but i live in Spain,Madrid i have friends in UK,but they dont know from where i can buy it second hand,so please help me because i am without a car right now. I dont want to drive it because if i do then my head gasket can get over heat it. My email is kgbangela@hotmail.com
16:16, 13th February 2009 samjust wondering where you get all your spare parts from. i can never seem to find a decent supplier. i havent had any problems with my car except the ones i cause, it hasnt got a radiator fan on it yet cos i had to remove it to fit a new radiator which doesnt have the mounting points for the fan. ive got the old radiator on at the moment and the temp gauge doesnt budge no matter how heavy footed iam.
19:06, 16th February 2009 STEPHEN MILLSthanks my rover has been overheating on the odd occasion then seems to right itself. you have given me food for thought before i go taking it to the scrap yard. as all the my mate the mechanics tell me the head gaskets gone sharp intake of breath required at this point the cars only done 28000 miles so it deserves a chance. thanks again steve m
10:55, 17th February 2009 MickI used to get my spares from Jim Fisher Parts, Watkin Street, Fenton, Stoke-on-Trent ST4 4PF, telephone 01782 844278. Either from him or the local Unipart dealer. Some parts I managed to get from the local scrap yard but only non critical ones. I must admit though I haven't had the Rover for nearly 2 years now so I don't know the current situation with Rover spares.
21:31, 23rd February 2009 Carlhelp just put a new engine in my metro but it seems to be revin on its own not sure if i got air leak in the inlet manifold cos the gasket split when changing it put sealer on it but not sure if its done the job my inlet is different to yours though its multi point injection on a 97 model but the engine is out of a 93 single point any theories welcome
18:00, 24th February 2009 keni have had 2 100s and both had suspect gasket trouble now got a micra 3years bliss on a r plate
14:33, 1st March 2009 Mini ClassicsAll my experience is with Mini Cooper's and variations of A series engines, which are virtually bullet proof, so I was dying to get my hands on a failed K series, bizarre as it sounds. I found your site when I was doing my research and it is just about the most comprehensive guide anywhere, web or manual. Top site, top man , top banana.
20:11, 10th March 2009 popeyeWhat a fantastic site, well done on this one. My old lady has had one of these crapy metros for 4 years and now I am up against the head gasket problem. With the help of this site I am looking forward to doing the job now instead of convincing her to scrap the knacker, but she does love her little metro so what can you do. So this coming weekend I will give it a go. Watch this space. ps I have got the patience of a raging gorilla so I hope all goes well or the scrap yard will have another rover metro for the crusher and the next door neighbour will be wondering how his nice flower bed has started springing up car parts. Thanks again, popeye.
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